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Tagged: double glazing, seconday double glazing, WERs, windows
- This topic has 19 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 11 months ago by Norman Smith.
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April 17, 2013 at 10:49 am #1209Norman SmithParticipant
Thanks Lois, its also on-line here so I think its safe to say it can be added to the resource library; I was probably being overly cautious and to be honest couldn’t remember from whence I obtained it
http://www.cmnzl.co.nz/assets/sm/5787/61/Nick_Smith_Winning_Paper.pdf
April 18, 2013 at 9:21 am #1215Sarah FirthParticipantDoes anyone know of where to get a light perspex in very large sheets for DIY secondary glazing? A lot of my clients comment that they would rather try something more rigid than the film in the kits. Thanks!
April 18, 2013 at 9:57 am #1218Paul HansenParticipantPerspex is not cheap in my experiance. It will also probably need some type of mechanical fixing to get a seal as good as the film.
People using the film end up quite surprised at how non intrusive it is, that is you need to often take a second look to even realise it is there.
April 18, 2013 at 2:16 pm #1220Jo WillsParticipantI realised early on I should have been more specific in my question – it came from one of our CEN online forums, a man said the actual glass being installed in his home looked a lot thinner than the ones the sales rep had shown him and he was concerned he had been ripped off.
To educate the ignorant (me), could you provide more info about DIY seal Paul? Thanks.
April 18, 2013 at 6:25 pm #1223Norman SmithParticipantHi Sarah, adding to Paul’s comments which align with what I know from talking to people who install perspex on windows. (FYI product thickness approx 4.5mm)
Firstly, it scratches easily so its not a good idea to put it in a high traffic area. Also, there are real installation issues. Best to get it cut to size and even drilled by the specialist company which supplies it, e.g. in Wellington Petone Plastics, that way you reduce the chance of splitting or damaging.
You need a sealant tape which goes onto the surface of the frame of the window to isolate the trapped air to best effect, then the perspex then beading on top of that. The frames would need to be pretty true to create an effective seal.
Completely support what Paul says, the film is pretty well invisible and I reckon by far the better option. I’d strongly advise your clients to try the low cost film option first, pretty sure they will be pleased with the result.
By the way, there is a translucent (might be polycarbonate) sheet – can’t remember the brand name – which is about 10mm thick with a kind of honeycomb centre which gives it some insulation performance in its own right. It’s no good for windows, because you can’t see through it, but good for adding to single glazed skylights.
But I digress, Jo you asked about DIY film. Its now sold in Bunning etc but they only have one product; in the US there is a range for different applications including one for outdoors. Big sheets, large french doors no problem. I am in the middle of documenting, with heaps of photos, the experience of installing the complete range of weatherstripping products in Sea Rotmann’s place (hi Sea) with a view to producing a “how to” resource. This includes installing the Window Warmer film, which first time around a few weeks failed completely because …….. well that’s another story.
Can talk about the background to this and what we (and Grant Dunford from Negawatt Resources) have been up to and why, when, and how. It’s a work in progress which took me back nearly 20 years to the dawn of Warm-Up NZ. Perhaps I’ll create a separate post on this adventure!
In summary the reason I went Back to the Future and decided to try and create this resource is because very few people in NZ have a clue about how to carry out this most cost effective of energy efficiency improvements through a serious, informed and technically competent initiatuves to reduce ‘involuntary’ air change in a residential property.
Cheers, Norman
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